Training Your Dog to Run

How to Train Your Furry Friend to Be Your Running Partner

Dogs truly are a gift to humankind. They offer a unique companionship. Without ever saying a word, a dog will always want to be with you, always be happy to see you, and always love and depend on your love for their entire life. The friendship is pure and irreplaceable as a dog will never expect more from you other than your love and care. Naturally, if youre a runner and/or enjoy hiking adventures, your dog can be an amazing companion who will want to go however far you go, however long you go, whatever time of day. Being a responsible pet owner is being prepared so they can enjoy these adventures with you. 

Since the moment I began learning about Jane Goodall in elementary school on my own account, animal behavior has always been a huge intrigue for me. The beautiful thing about animals is they innately will strive for love, protection, and survival within their communities. Animals, just like humans, are innately active, some more capable than others. Its our job to responsibly prepare them so they can always be a healthy running partner. Below is an expanded version of my 2XU Q&A article on how to train your dog companion to be the runner he/she is meant to be. 

1. What are the benefits of running with your dog?

My two dogs are family: my 7-year-old labrador, Max, goes the distance on runs and swims. My 5-year-old boxer, Bruno, does sprints with me and chases me on my bike. The biggest benefit of running with your dog is to see their joy mirrors the exact same joy you have when you are out there running. To be able to share an activity you love with someone that will always be happy to be with you is a beautiful gift of companionship. You are their everything for their entire life. 

2. What are the best breeds for running?

Different breeds have different abilities and/or limitations on how far or fast they can run with you. Any breed will want to run with you: how far and long will depend on its physiology and how well you train your dog. For example, short snouts can limit a dog on how well they can cool themselves or short legs can limit a dog how fast they can keep up with you. They cool off from their paw pads and panting. Therefore shorter snouts makes it more of a challenge for dogs to run long. Size, shape, length of legs, length of snout, weight, and density of fur coat all influence the type of runner your dog can be. Dogs cooling mechanisms are key to understand when it comes to running so keep these factors in mind when training your dog to run. This isnt a complete list but here are some breeds to keep in mind when choosing a running partner. 

According to Outside Magazine:

We both made the list, mom!

Rhodesian Ridgeback

Weimaraner

Border Collie

Australian Shepard

German Shepard

Dalmation 

Alaskan Malamute

Vizsla

Airedale Terrier

Jack Russel Terrier

Poodle

Belgian Shepard

English Setter

Siberian Huskey

German Pointer

Brittany Spaniel

Boxer

Labrador Retriever

Australian Cattle Dog

American Staffordshire Terrier

3. What is the safe age for dogs to start running? 

Two factors need to be kept in mind: 1) size of breed and 2) age. We need to be more careful with younger and older dogs as they are either still developing into their adult phase or are slower to heal/regenerate cells. Smaller breeds tend to live longer; therefore, their rate of physiological maturity is slower than larger breeds. By keeping these two factors in mind, follow the key rule: dont do too much, too soon, too fast. Sound familiar? What applies to humans applies to dogs. Allow puppies to be puppies especially during those first six months dont do anything extreme. Focus more on dog commands (such as heel, sit, stay) rather than distance or speed. Commands and skills are important to incorporate into your dog training as it can save your dogs life on a run. The more you work on these commands and allow your dog to practice, the better he will become. 

For example, I adopted Max when he was six weeks old with the full intention he would be my running partner. Beginning at 2-3 months we would take casual 1-2 mile walks very early in the morning at the beach to avoid distractions. Puppies just like kids are VERY easily distracted so when training them aim to eliminate as many distractions as possible. We would practice commands on and off the leash and then I would allow him to splash around in the waves. By six months old, we started running 2-3 miles together only a couple times a week still focusing fully on the commands of him obeying on and off leash. From 6-12 months, I gradually extended the runs to 4-5 miles and started picking up the pace always listening to what his threshold was. After one year of training focusing primarily on commands and building mileage very gradually, then you can build more and run more often always listening to how your dog responds. At his peak shape, Max was able to handle 20-22mi trail runs at my pace and/or 7-8mi tempo runs at 6:00 min/mi pace. Anyone that has run with Max and I can attest how obedient he is when it comes to running out there. We usually opt for remote trails where there is less ped "traffic". He prefers cooler weather, though, like his mom. 

Keep in mind that how well trained your dog becomes is very fluid. If you dont maintain it then they lose it and you shouldnt aim to have your dog aiming to kill mileage all year. Their bodies require rest and periodization too. Be patient with your dog and give yourself a year of gradual mileage build up. 

Sunrise at 10,064

4. How far can dogs safely go? 

Just like humans, there is no magic number and every dog breed is different. With most dog breeds, you want to be mindful and not be selfish to push them too long. They will run till the end of earth for you, but you dont want to burn them out. Ive taken Max on +20 milers on the trails during cool weather when hes very well trained, but we arent doing this every weekend. It would be once every couple months. Labs tend to be prone to joint problems and hip dysplasia. Therefore, I keep this in mind by giving him dog glucosamine supplements, aim to keep him at a lean body weight (yes, you need to be mindful of dog weight if you want him to safely be active on his joints), and dont do the really long runs too often. When hes moderately trained, he can handle a 10-12 miler in the trails at my pace a couple times per week. I normally would not exceed 30-40 miles/week with Max, but then again I am a low mileage runner as well. I will admit he does fall a little out of shape when I train for an Ironman because I am running much less. Its always harder to train a dog (or even a human for that matter) to go faster than go longer. Treat your dog like a human. Listen to what their body is telling you. If they are starting to lag behind on the runs then back off the pace and/or cut the distance short. The human will need to be more patient than the dog when it comes to building mileage safely. 

5. How do you train your dog to drink/eat on the run?

You will need to train your dog to drink from your hydration pack/bottle and eat while on the run. This is more important for long runs and probably not as necessary for shorter runs. If its hot, carry more hydration for your dog and slow down the pace substantially. Dogs have a different cooling mechanism than humans do. As humans, we have a higher surface area where our sweat glands will cool us off when sweat evaporates. Dogs do not have that luxury. Chill the pace or instead go for a swim with your pooch on very hot days.

Introduce drinking from your hydration bottle/pack very early in your walks and/or runs training the dog you will not go further until they take a drink. Certain dog breeds can be stubborn, but again training a dog takes a huge amount of patience since they will not get it the first try. Always praise your dog when they listen. A treat is nice, but dont get in the bad habit of allowing your dog to associate that every good deed will yield a treat. Its like when humans develop the bad habit treating food as a reward. All they ask is for your love. Train your dog to seek for your praise saying: good boy or good girl and massaging them behind the ears goes a very long way for dogs. 

There are certain foods that are safe for dogs so learn to carry dog safe foods and electrolytes enough for your dog and yourself for the long runs. Labs have voracious appetites so my Max will eat anything. I give him a snack every hour when we are running for two hours or longer on the trails. I give him a sip of hydration about every mile depending on the outside temperature. Here are some food items that are unsafe for dogs.

6. How does temperature affect a dogs run? 

Mt. Islip Summit

For heat: Dogs cooling mechanisms are different than ours and less efficient than humans. They cool off only from their panting and paw pads so they will warm up quicker than you. Give them extra hydration, monitor they aren’t overheating, and slow the pace. 

For rain: they love it! Most at least. Dogs are like little kids at heart and they will play with you out there for hours. 

For cold/snow: Some breeds definitely can tolerate colder temps and are made for it. The colder it is, the longer and better they can run such as huskies. My lab absolutely loves it! My boxer is more cautious and not a huge fan of cooler temps so he wears the dog shoes as his paw pads are more sensitive to cold. 

 7. Who should dictate the pace – the human or the dog? 

Mt. Baldy Summit

The human commands the direction of the run. The dog should influence the pace. This goes back to listening to what your dog can tolerate and what he/she is trained for. Dogs, just like humans, can be trained to go amazing distances or speeds, but the training must be gradual so they don’t get hurt. They will want to please you so will go as long as you go so just make sure they are safely trained for it. I usually end up taking my dogs out on my long recovery runs so it is a run that is more for them than me. The human should always dictate the pace within the parameters and capabilities of their pup.  

The human is the alpha so the human needs to command the pace and direction of the run. If the dog learns that it can do whatever it wants and you follow him/her, it can lead to an unsafe situation for your dog. On leash, your dog needs to learn that it should not pull or tug on you rather run with you. When off leash, your dog needs to learn that there still is an invisible leash and should always stay within a certain distance of you as you run along together. 

8. What other issues are you likely to encounter when running with a dog? 

Strawberry Peak Summit

Dogs can have an off day. Learn to read their signs. If they just aren’t their energetic selves then call it early and shorten the run. If you’re running in populated areas, train your dog to listen to your commands because sometimes you might run into some humans who just don’t like to be close to dogs. Respect others personal space unless invited.

Socialize your dog as early and often as possible. Take them to dog beaches and dog parks so they learn how to behave around a pack of other dogs and humans. Train them to travel with you. Train them to behave in different settings. So that when you take them on a run, they will just flow with you as if you both were one. I absolutely love my dogs and am so grateful I can share their beautiful joy outdoors with me.

Sounds like too much work? Like any relationship--partner, child, parent, student, athlete--however much you are willing to put into it is what you will get out of it. Your lovable, cuddly popcorn-smelling buddy will be an amazing running partner and every minute will be golden out there, 
human and dog together. 

Maxs adventures @irondogmax

Read More..

Fun Places for Dog Lovers to Visit

By Julia Williams

If you love to take your dog along when you travel or just get out for a day of fun, there’s no shortage of Fido-friendly places you can go. Here are some ideas to consider.

Dog Days Baseball Games

Yes, you can take your four-legged BFF with you to the ball park, on specific dog-allowed days. This year, 18 major league baseball teams hosted Dog Days (some stadiums call them Bark in the Parks), with many holding multiple events. This dog-friendly event began in 1996 when the White Sox offered the first Dog Day which was a huge success. Some even have festivities such as parades, competitions, dog-related vendors and fundraisers for animal charities. Each stadium has its own requirements for vaccinations, weight limits and such, so be sure to visit their website or call before you go to get all the details.

National Mall and Memorial Parks in Washington, D.C.

This historical site in the heart of our nation’s capital includes a host of iconic monuments including the Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt Memorials as well as the World War II, Korean War Veteran’s and Vietnam Veteran’s Memorials. The National Mall also includes Constitution Gardens, Washington Monument, Pennsylvania Avenue National Historic Site and Park, Ford’s Theatre National Historic Site, and a clock tower built in 1899. According to the National Park Service, dogs are permitted up to the monuments except in indoor or covered areas. In-between monument viewing, there are lots of places to walk, picnic, sight-see, enjoy the views and play a game of Frisbee with your dog.

BonBon-Land Amusement Park in Denmark

This quirky amusement park is near Copenhagen and as the name suggests, its theme is inspired by a line of sweets. But what makes this a fun place for dog lovers to visit is the park’s famous (infamous? lol) roller coaster, the Hundprutt-berg-och-dalbanan. Loosely translated, the name means Dog Fart Switchback, and they carried the theme throughout – the ride features dog sculptures, fake dog doo, and speakers that make loud farting noises as you soar under a giant dog – while he’s lifting his leg, naturally!

Carmel, California 

Nicknamed “Dog Town West” because of its reputation for being so dog friendly, this charming seaside city has dozens of quaint inns, hotels and bed-and-breakfasts that welcome pooches of every size, as well as a plethora of restaurants, bars and coffeehouses that offer seating where dogs are permitted. Carmel also has a leash-free beach, and many of the city’s shops and galleries provide tasty dog biscuits and fresh water for their four-legged visitors.

San Diego, California

Pleasantly warm temperatures year-round, dog-themed events, plenty of pet-friendly hotels and shopping opportunities – these are just a few of the things that make San Diego a great place for dogs and dog lovers. Add beautiful white-sand beaches that allow your canine friend to accompany you as you worship the sun or enjoy spectacular ocean views (a few beaches are even leash-free), and it’s a must-see destination!

New York City

If you love the hustle-and-bustle of a big city, New York is a great place for you to visit with your dog. Aside from a looooong list of dog parks, New York offers dog-friendly walking tours, group tours, dog beaches, and lots of other fun and interesting attractions where your canine friend is welcome to join you.  When you’re all tuckered out from seeing the sights, there are plenty of dog-friendly hotels, so you’re sure to find a place where you and your pooch can get some shuteye, even if the city itself never sleeps.

Read more articles by Julia Williams

Read More..

Introducing Your Dog to a Cat

By Suzanne Alicie

Some people are “cat people” while others are “dog people,” but what about those who love both? It’s always been a common belief that dogs and cats do not get along. In fact, many dogs and cats can be great friends. Ideally, puppies and kittens are introduced when young and grow up together. However, if that isn’t the situation and you want to introduce your dog to a cat in the hopes of adding a feline presence to your home, there are certain steps to take.

The first thing to understand is that both dogs and cats are territorial, and a dog that lives in your home will see the cat as an intruder. If the cat runs, then it is prey; this could get really messy if you don’t take precautions and introduce both animals slowly.  Keep in mind that the cat is not only meeting a larger, louder animal with teeth and claws who doesn’t want her there, but she is also being introduced into a new place and will be nervous and skittish.

To assist you with this introduction and prevent injury to the dog, cat and people, there are a few things you’ll need to have. The first is a secure cat carrier, preferably with holes too small for the cat to get a paw out. You will also need a harness, leash and muzzle for your dog as well as a second person to help with the introductions. Don’t forget to have some CANIDAE TidNips™ treats on hand. Reward the animals throughout the process for their good behavior and be sure to praise them both. Your voice will be calming and help both animals deal with the introduction.

Place the cat in the carrier and harness your dog before attaching the muzzle. Keep in mind you are dealing with nature: dogs bite, cats scratch…so do as much as possible to prevent any injury to either animal.

Once both animals are situated, choose an area to place the cat carrier and slowly allow your dog to sniff and inspect the carrier. Scent is very important to dogs, so introducing the scent of the cat to your dog first is a good idea. The cat may hiss and puff up its fur. This is a defensive measure, and by having the cat inside the carrier you’re saving your dog’s nose from those dangerous claws.  Allow both animals to smell and get used to one another. When your dog settles down and is willing to lie down or wander away from the carrier and when the cat stops hissing, that is an indicator they are accustomed to the scent and presence of one another.

However, this doesn’t mean they are ready to be friends! Close the doors to the room you are in so both animals are contained. Make sure someone has a very tight hold on the dog’s leash and that the muzzle is secure before you open the door to the cat carrier. Step several feet away from the carrier and allow the cat to come out on her own. Your dog may lunge toward the cat, but it is important to keep him back and allow the cat to wander around the room without the dog getting close enough to get swatted. This enables both the dog and cat to realize that there is another animal in the room, and the cat can explore the new area without anyone getting hurt.

The more trained your dog is and the better he follows commands, the better the introduction will go.  Learn more about dog training in this article on 11 Basic Commands by Linda Cole.

Sadly, there is a time when your dog will probably come into contact with claws and hissing. It’s almost unavoidable because as soon as the dog gets close enough to sniff and explore the cat, the cat will defend its personal space. Be patient and allow the animals to get accustomed to one another in a controlled environment.

It can take several days before you feel comfortable having the cat and dog in the same room without the dog being harnessed and even longer before you feel comfortable taking off the muzzle. When you do take off the muzzle, be sure to have someone ready to grab the cat and get it to safety in case the dog attacks. Before you plan to bring a cat into your home with a dog, make sure you have a way to keep them separated until they become used to each other.

While most dogs and cats will adapt, there are cases where a dog just can’t get over the urge to chase the cat, and there are cats whose nerves just can’t handle being around a dog. Observe your pets and make sure they are both happy, feel safe and are comfortable in their home. In cases where the animals just can’t adapt, it is important to find a safe home for one of the pets.  Being a responsible pet owner means preventing injury and unhappiness in your pets at all costs. A proper introduction is imperative if you wish to have a multi-species home.

Top photo by fazen
Bottom photo by Michelle Tribe

Read more articles by Suzanne Alicie

Read More..

Five Great Tips for Writing to the Editor About a Dog Bite Story

By Teresa Lewin

One of the first tips I give dog bite victims is to stay clear of reader’s comments should their story be shared with the media. It can be upsetting as most times the comments stray off topic, blame is cast, and emotions are running high for the victim, owners of the dog and the dog’s fate is before the courts. Sadly no one wins in this type of trauma. The comments can turn into heated debates very quickly.

I dont know what happened to spawn this little article of mine. I dont know what motivated me for the first time to respond to the reader’s comments. It may have been on the heels of a recent visit I made to a family who is overcome with grief and fear after their young son had had a bad experience with dogs that were running at large. They are trying to make new goals in their life, but the look of despair was obvious in their eyes. It could have been the recent conversations I had had with a group of dog bite victims, who were filled with fear, anguish, and sadness, but also the will to overcome, and enjoy dogs again in their lives. It could have been the gentle look my dog cast upon me, whilst he lay his head upon my lap. Somehow I found the courage to write a short letter in response to a horrific attack upon a child that resulted in the childs death. Ah, geez I just had to pick the hardest topic in the world to make sense of and there just isn’t enough hair dye in the world to justify just how stressful that can be. Blinders on, I continue forward despite all the red flags, because Im a dog bite prevention educator, so I must, Must, MUST send my response to educate (at this point interject a mental photo of a Jack Russell Terrier that spots a ball that it must have despite the fact that it can’t reach it…). Thats what I do and that’s the reason I plugged on, writing, in hopes of sharing something that would resonate with all who chose to read the reader comments. Below is a copy of my letter.

Teresas Letter to the Editor

No matter what the breed of dog you choose to share space with, it’s best if parents do some research and prepare for the life changes, involving babies, children and dogs. Almost all dog bites can be prevented through education. Education is not about blaming any one person or animal, it is all about learning to prevent tragedy from occurring. Fire prevention is an example of what education can do. Almost everyone knows what to do ¡f you should catch on fire: Stop drop and roll. Families should be just as familiar with what to do to prevent dog a bite: Be a Tree. Doggone Safe’s mandate is all about Prevention as its primary objective and we are proud to be the first non-profit in history to have accomplish this through education and victim support.

Having said this, Doggone Safe is hosting a huge challenge this year in May for dog bite prevention week. For the whole month of May, we are going to try to reach as many children as we can, using the Be a Tree teacher kits to educate about dog bite prevention.

This is how we can all do something completely proactive. Did you know that by the time a child reaches the age of 12, more than half have been bitten by a dog? Did you also know that of those children bitten that the dog was known to them? We live in a society where we have chosen to share space with a whole other species, like the dog. It’s best to learn all we can about dog behaviour, how to communicate with them, how to condition them to live in our home with our children and society in general. Dogs are everywhere, even people and families who do not share space with a dog in their home, will meet one in the street, in a friend, family or neighbours home. The more you know about how a dog communicates the safer you will be.

Please all, visit www.doggonesafe.com for more information as to how to be safe around dogs and prevent dog bites. We love dogs, we love children. Let’s all do our part to help prevent terrible events like the one posted here in the news.

Five Tips to Responding to the Editor  

Many articles and letters to the editor have been written with sharing success using 5 simple steps which I have listed below. If need be, re-read my letter above and see where these tips have been used.

1. Do not cast blame-it won’t fix the problem. Not now, not ever. There is no future there…instead write about how to avoid another attack in the future.
2. Share the burden- The burden of society is also a point worth making such as fundraising to promote dog bite prevention in shelters, schools, community centers, to involve the whole community to address dog bite prevention.
3. Refer to breed of dog in your response as: “the Dog”-this will help keep the reader on track with the message you are making, as well as, help set you up for success so that your message will remain intact and not be subject to debate, out of context responses, and/or political issues.
4. Remain neutral and objective by staying on topic- if you discuss one point of view, you will have to discuss all points of view, from the victim, from the owner of dog, from the dog’s (inferred) point of view. It’s best to stick to the educational content and tips to keep everyone safe including the dog!
5. Finally, send your comment or message to the editor of the paper and not the reader comments! You increase your chances of your comment being shared with a bigger audience. 

Advice for Dog Bite Victims

It’s also important to note that dog bite victims need to be validated. Having said that, if you know a dog bite victim that is trying to become a survivor, the best advice you can give them is:

• Don’t read the ‘readers comments’ of your story should it make the local press
• Seek therapy ASAP
• Visit Doggone Safe for more tips for Dog bite victims 

If you like the letter above, please feel free to copy the letter (just give me credit for writing it on your behalf) and send it off to your local newspaper. There are many articles we have posted for your use on www.doggonesafe.com to copy and send to your local media.

Why don’t we set a personal challenge and send a letter a week right up and through Dog Bite Prevention Month of May! Send a copy of the letter I wrote above, or use another sample from our web site. Write your own letter to the media! I’m going to do the same.

Thats a proactive thing to do.

I’m looking forward to May! Cheers all,

Teresa

Teresa Lewin
Co-founder Doggone Safe Inc.

Please send your questions, comments to: safek9milton@live.ca 

Read More..

Dog Training How To Leash Train A Dog

Dog Training Leash Collar



Hi there,

We have come to another form of training in our How To Train A Dog .

How To Leash Train A Dog

http://www.mdarma.com/dogs/leash.html

The leash and collar Training is the oldest form of training and is one of the effective tool for you to train your dog into an obedient and faithfully pet.

http://www.mdarma.com/dogs/leash.html

Cheers, Have a great time with you pet.

Darma

Read More..

Dog Training Initial Training how to train a dog

Dog training – Initial Training

Dogs are known as a faithful animal, most dog owners or dog breeders would love to have a calm and obedient a dog. It is said that a calm and an obedient dogs can be acheved by a good training program on how to train a dog. Moreover, these trained dogs will have lesser tussles with people and other dogs.

If it is a puppy, you will need much more patience and time to house train your puppy correctly.

If you want your puppy to use the bathroom outside, you have to observe to its need to use the bathroom. When he needs to go outside, it will help if you condition him by saying "outside" or "out" in a high-pitched tone of voice, just to get him used to the idea of where he is going. He will soon learn what you mean and that it is time to go to the bathroom. Never forget to reward him with a praise when he follows or obeys your command.
Whatever dog training we give the dogs, there are some basic trainings and commands a dog must understand and follow. There is will be great to have a good program on how to train a dog.

http://www.mdarma.com/dogs

Some of these commands are:

· Sit – Training your dog to sit on a command is a basic and an important part of any dog-training program.

· Stay – A well-trained dog should be able to remain where his or her owner commands. So stay is another very important command in dog training.

· Down – Lying down on command is more than just as necessary; it is a key factor of any successful dog-training program.

· No – the word “NO” is one word that all dogs must learn and obey. Training your dog to respond to this important word can save you a lot of unnecessary trouble.

A well-trained dog will respond well to all the owner’s command. This dog will not be confused or show displeasure. Therefore, to achieve this it is vital to embark on a good dog training program.

Also a well-trained dog will also be a very good companion to you and your family. Further, you will have fewer problems like getting into tussles with people or with other dogs. So a good dog training is necessary

Obedience training is essential and is a great way to satisfy some of the dog’s own needs, example, exercise, relationship with it’s owner or handler.

Obedience training should be on going sessions; apart from dog training, playtime should be part and parcel of the training. This will ensure that the dog does not become bored and it also reinforces the bond between the owner and the dog.

Have many happy years with your friend and companion. Cheers

P.S.
Dove Cresswell is Professional Hollywood North Dog Trainer. Find out her success secrets.

2006 (c) mdarma.com - All Rights Reserved Worldwide A Dog Training

Read More..

Halloween Safety Tips for Kids and Dogs

Halloween is lots of fun for kids, but many dogs will be confused or upset by kids in strange costumes and by lots of people coming to the door, but never being invited in. Doggone Safe offers the following tips for dog owners, kids and parents:

Dog owners:

1. Secure your dog behind a closed door or in a crate in a room away from the front door or the party if children are meeting at your house.
2. Give him a Kong stuffed with hotdog, Rollover or other soft dog treats, Greenies or other long lasting chew. Ask your vet if you need advice on safe and nutritious chews for your dog.
3. Play music or leave a TV or radio playing in the dog’s room to help mask the sounds of the activity at the front door.
4. Close drapes so that the dog does not see people coming and going through the window.
5. If you have a dog that barks at the sound of the doorbell, disconnect it or watch for trick-or-treaters so that they do not have to ring or knock.
6. Puppies and dogs that like to chase can get overly excited by costumes with dangly bits or streaming material. Supervise very carefully if you have a dog that may try to play with your children’s costumes while they are wearing them. Teach kids to Be a Tree and stand still if the dog does start nipping at their costume since the more they move, the more exited the dog will get.
7. Keep your dogs (and cats) indoors around Halloween time. Pets have been stolen, injured or poisoned as part of Halloween pranks or other rituals.

 Kids and Parents:

1. Avoid houses if you can hear a dog barking behind the door, you can see a dog behind a screen door or you see a dog tied up in the yard or barking behind a fence.
2. Never approach any dog, even if you know him. He may not recognize you in your costume.
3. If an owner opens the door and there is a dog there, just stay still and wait for the dog owner to put the dog away. You can tell them you do not want to come near the dog. Do not move toward the person and dog. Wait for them to come to you to give you your candy. Wait for them to close the door before you turn and leave.
4. If a dog escapes just stand still and Be a Tree (hands folded in front, watching your feet). He will just sniff you and then move on. Wait for the owner to come and get the dog before you turn away.
5. If you meet a loose dog, Be a Tree and wait until it goes away.
6. It is best to ignore other people’s dogs on Halloween if you meet them out walking. The dog may be worried about all the strange creatures that are out and about. Even if you know the dog, he may not recognize you in your costume.

Doggone Safe wishes everyone a safe and happy Halloween!

Click Here to download our tips as a handout

Read More..

Parents Learn About Dog Body Language Before the Holidays

Many dog bites happen over the holidays, partly because dogs are stressed and overwhelmed by changes in routine and increased activity levels in the house. Parents are also stressed and frequently overwhelmed as well. The combination can lead to a set of circumstances that conducive to unfortunate accidents in which a child is bitten. These bites DO NOT HAPPEN OUT OF THE BLUE. Sorry for yelling, but we have just heard so many parents and dog owners tell us that the dog bit without warning, that he has never bitten before, that he loves kids. The latter two statements are true in most cases, the former is not. The fact is, that the dog did warn in some way, it was just that no-one noticed. By the time the dog gets to the point of growling or snapping, he is stressed to the point where he is likely to bite. For many people these overt warnings, or even the bite itself are the only things blatant enough to be noticeable. Before a dog brings out the big guns of overt aggression he will signal his distress and anxiety with more subtle signs. Most commonly these include licking his chops or flicking his tongue out, yawning, scratching himself or showing a half moon of white in his eye when a child approaches or tries to interact with him. He may give a whole body shake after an interaction with a child. Slightly more obvious, but often ignored are signs of avoidance, such as turning his head away, shifting his body away or getting up and leaving. Effusive licking of a childs face is another way that a dog might try to increase distance. This type of licking should not be confused with affection. Read more about this.

We want parents to learn all about dog body language so that they know what to look for and how to tell if their dog is happy or stressed around their child and how to tell when intervention is required. We want all parents to know the warning signs so that no familys holidays are ruined by a dog bite incident. There is lots of information at our website, but the best source of information for parents is our online course: Basic Dog Body Language. To celebrate the coming holidays and hopefully prevent some nice family dogs from biting "out of the blue" we have put this course on sale for $20 until Nov 15.

Click here for more information

Click here to register

Have a safe and happy holiday season!

Read More..

Heroes and why do we feed our dogs to death

Paul and Tinker

Hey Julie,

I’m glad you’re a fan of Paul McGreevy’s too! 

I admire so much of the work he’s done (and facilitated or helped others to do). He’s not afraid to raise sensitive topics and tricky questions through his science and I appreciate that enormously.

Your last post got me thinking about who my canine science (or general doggy-people) heroes are – I’m still pondering on this, but there are plenty of them!

(source)

I think I’ll get back to you with my conclusions and explanations another day, after I’ve had some more time to ruminate on it a bit more.

Meanwhile, I wanted to get back to you to talk fat dogs.

Sampson, June 2011 (source)

One of my local animal shelters was attracting global attention recently when 8 year old Sampson was surrendered to the shelter for rehoming and weighed in at a whopping 84kg (that’s 185lbs). 

Sampson’s not alone. Up to 40% of Australia’s pet dog population are overweight and this is comparable to other developed nations. 

The weird thing is – why? 

Vanessa Rohlf

As pet owners, we humans are in control of their food, we understand that amount of food + amount of exercise = pet weight. We even have pet food companies who have developed weight control formulas so we can feed more but give less - so why can’t some people control the balance to keep our pets healthy?

(source)

Vanessa Rohlf is a fellow PhD candidate of mine in the Anthrozoology Research Group and she has done some excellent work looking into this area of pet owner/caregiver psychology.

Click to enlarge figure (source)

Her research has shown that our behaviours (actions) as pet caregivers can be based on a complex range of beliefs and intentions. We may give more importance to the opinions of a close friend in regards to our pets care than what our veterinarian tells us. You can read the outline of a talk she presented that offers a good summary about why some owners dont comply with pet ownership practices here. 

For more detailed information about Vanessas research, check out the journal articles below. 
It’s really, really interesting stuff!

Sampson, June 2012 (source)

Oh – and Sampson? He’s doing really well – 12 months on, he’s half the dog he once was, has inspired a whole fundraising campaign and is a bit of a local celebrity.

Further reading:

Rohlf, V.I., Toukhsati, S., Coleman, G.J. & Bennett, P.C. (2010). Dog Obesity: Can Dog Caregivers (Owners) Feeding and Exercise Intentions and Behaviors Be Predicted From Attitudes?, Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, 13 (3) 236. DOI: 10.1080/10888705.2010.483871 

Rohlf, V.I., Bennett, P.C., Toukhsati, S. & Coleman, G. (2010). Why Do Even Committed Dog Owners Fail to Comply with Some Responsible Ownership Practices?, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 23 (2) 155. DOI: 10.2752/175303710X12682332909972

© Mia Cobb 2012

Read More..

How to train your experienced blood tracking dog a training report from Darren

This is a report from Darren Doran describing his latest training line for Theo. Regular readers of the blog are very familiar with this tracking team from New Jersey. Darren used a new design of tracking shoes, which is produced by Ray Holohan. We will have a separate post about them soon, when Ray is ready to start selling his product.

TRAINING LINE
The line is 1000 yds. long. This line was my first line using Ray Holohans buck shock tracking shoes. 4 oz. of blood was used. Blood, feet, and articles were from the same deer. The line will be 36 hrs. old when ran and is set in an area the County burned this spring. The soil is very sandy here. The vegetation is sparse due to the burn and the woods are mostly oak and pine. Visibility is good here and the over story is somewhat open. There are numerous 90’S and one backtrack and one wound bed. Three articles were used on this line and were made from deer skin about 2 X 1 stapled to a 4 inch by 1 inch diameter dried piece of stick.

TRAINING GOAL
The goal of this exercise is to work on article identification, stopping and re-starting on the line and the backtrack. I will also start this line as a controlled search and see how Theo does.

ACTUAL LINE
It was 71 degrees, overcast and humid this morning. I started Theo in a controlled search about 80 yds. from the line and about 50 yds. into it from the hit site. I asked him to search and “find the blood”. He worked nicely in a left to right forward arc until we hit the line. He took the line back towards the hit site and through it and began searching. He looped back to the line and took it back to the hit site and was about to pass through it again when I alerted him on it. He stopped and smelled the hair and turned around. I gave him a piece of meat and we started tracking.

I thought this was going to be harder for Theo but his tracking speed told me differently. We did numerous stops on the line and I would reward him with a piece of meat and give him water. He restarted nicely. He found the articles and these were too big for him to swallow. Articles in the past were small pieces of skin and hair that he would pick up, swallow and continue tracking so fast I was not able to reward him for finding them. He took all the turns but one perfectly. The one he missed only took a minute or so to require the line. His tracking speed also caused him to miss the wound bed. The backtrack took seven minutes to work out. This line took 33 minutes to finish and does not include the controlled search.

CONCLUSION
Theo did real well on this line. What I thought was going to be difficult was very easy for him. He handled the controlled search excellent. There was no mistaking his reaction when he hit the line. Stopping and re-starting was good. The larger articles got him to stop and be rewarded for finding them. The backtrack still needs work but is getting better. Theo has a natural tendency to search forward and away from the last scent. When he circles back he doesn’t always make his circles large enough to cross back over the line. He does handle and when asked to “search here” he will respond. I’ll repeat this line and add 12 hrs. to the age and see how he does.

Read More..

Is There a “Right” Way to Pet a Dog

By Linda Cole

It may not seem that important, but how you pet a dog does matter… to the dog. Because canines are individuals, the “sweet spot” one dog enjoys may be an area you need to avoid with another, especially if you dont know the dog. Its important to teach children how to touch a dog to keep interactions between them safe and pleasant. Petting seems like a simple concept, but there are some things to keep in mind.

Wait for an invitation

Our first impulse is to reach down to pet a friendly looking dog, but in his eyes thats not a proper greeting. How you greet a dog matters. Ignore him while he takes a few minutes to check you out, and remember to ask the dogs owner for permission to pet him. If the dog doesnt appear interested in you or is holding back and hiding behind his owner, he may not be in the mood to have someone he doesnt know petting him. Hell let you know when hes ready for you to scratch his head.

Our own pets are comfortable with us because of the trust and bond weve built. We can pet them in ways they wouldnt allow someone else to do, and are much more likely to accept things from us they wouldnt from someone they arent familiar with. Never try to pet an unfamiliar dog who is trying to move away from you, is cornered, eating or lying down.

Use body language to put him at ease

Avoid reaching down towards a dog to pet him. Most canines dont appreciate having a hand swooping down from above. Its a threatening gesture in their eyes. Instead of standing over him, turn your body sideways and dont make direct eye contact, which can be seen as a threatening gesture. Ignore him and allow the dog to make first contact. If hes a shy or timid dog, when he feels you are not a threat hell approach you if he wants you to pet him.

Another way to show you arent threatening is to sit on the ground or squat down to the dogs level. If hes unsure, turn your body sideways to him or sit with your back to him and wait for him to come to you. Only do this if you know you arent dealing with an aggressive or scared dog. This is also a good tactic to use when trying to teach your own dog to come when you call him. It makes him curious, and most dogs will come over see what youre doing. Youve put him at ease and he feels more comfortable approaching you. As long as you ask before giving a treat to someone elses dog, tempting a shy dog with some CANIDAE Pure Heaven treats is one way to get his attention.

Non-threatening areas to pet

Stay away from the head, ears, mouth, tail and paws. The chest, shoulders and base of the neck are the more comfortable areas for most dogs. Move in from the side so you arent threatening. Some dogs like being touched at the base of their tail, but if you have never interacted with the dog before, its best to stay around the chest and neck regions. When youve developed a positive and trusting relationship, you have more leeway with where you are allowed to touch. You should be able to touch your own dog anywhere on his body.

Be gentle and calm

Use a gentle massaging motion that follows the direction of the fur. The idea is to calm a dog with soft, gentle strokes to help him relax and enjoy being petted. You can tell if he likes what youre doing because he will lean into your hand while you pet him. And he will also let you know if he wants some more when youve stopped petting. Stay away from patting, slapping or rubbing too hard to avoid getting him wound up or scared. Hugging an unfamiliar dog isnt a good idea, because a hug is perceived as being inhibiting and is uncomfortable for many dogs. Stay away from kissing dogs you arent familiar with.

Your own pet is willing to give you a lot more latitude because of the bond youve built. We need to touch the ears, tail, paws and mouth so we can cut toenails, brush teeth or clean their ears. We know where they like to be touched during play or while sitting on the couch cuddling. When you show a dog respect, he will give you his.

Top photo by Machu.
Bottom photo by USAG-Humphreys

Read more articles by Linda Cole

Read More..

Doggone Safe Translations

We are pleased to announce that the Be a Tree program is available in French (Quebec and France versions) and Italian. Spanish and German will be coming soon. There are also various other resources in French, Italian and Spanish.

The Be a Tree translations are PDF downloads that you can print and stick over the English on the posters from the Teacher Kit. The text on the back of the posters has been translated as have the Simon Says and Toolbox cards. These are free for anyone who has purchased a Be a Tree Kit in the past and will be available at the time of purchase for future customers. The Power Point version is also available as a translation along with the associated notes.

Please check out the link to our translations and pass on the information to anyone who might be interested:

http://doggonesafe.com/Translations

Read More..

How To Train a Dog That Doesnt Like Food or Toys

Training a Dog That Doesnt Like Food or Toys can be very frustrating at times, especially if you want to use positive reinforcement training. If you are set on using reward based training, check out my post Motivating a Non-Treat or Toy Motivated Dog

There are some dogs that just dont respond to food or toy based training. Such as the dogs mentioned in the comments of the post linked above.

Youre here because your dog doesnt like either food or toys. In fact, you have a hard time seeing anything your dog does like! You see reward based training everywhere, and every time you ask What do I do if my dog doesnt like food or toys you either get no answer, or you get answers just to get you to go away and ask somebody else.

My answer is, try a different Method! Its Okay if you dont train using food or toys.

Now, lets go over the other methods available to you.

How To Train a Dog That Doesnt Like Food or Toys : Praise and Correction

In this method, you dont use food or toys. You simply use petting and praise as a reward for doing the right thing. You always have these with you and its really easy to do! Dog doesnt like food? No problem!

To teach your dog what you want, you first show them what you want by getting them to do the behavior a few times. (Im not going to go into detail on how to do this, the link to the system below will show you exactly how to implement this training method. It works very well and is very fast.) Once you know the dog knows what you want, then you add in corrections when they dont do it on the first time you say.

If you would like more information on this system, check out the website to watch videos, read testimonials, and read more about it. See the website Here

I have this system myself and have used it on many dogs. Ive gotten very good results every time, and it does happen as fast as they say it does.

Get the Large Dog System here.

How To Train a Dog That Doesnt Like Food or Toys : Remote Collar Training

Our next method available to us if you have a dog that doesnt like food or toys, is Remote Collar Training. When used correctly, these do not hurt the dog and should not be used to hurt your dog. If youre hurting your dog or you see someone else using one of these and they are hurting their dog, you are Using It Wrong!

Remote collars can be an extremely useful tool in training, if you choose this method, please go to someone who knows how to properly use one and can teach you how. The best people Ive found that use Remote collar training is Sit Means Sit dog training. This company does amazing things, and no Im not affiliated with them in any way. I do not get paid to recommend them. Ive seen their You Tube Channel and have really liked what Ive seen. I highly recommend watching as many of their videos as you can so you can get an idea of whats possible with them. They have trainers all over the place, so be sure to see if there is one close by to you.

Here is a video of one of their off leash classes, it might give you an idea of what you can expect.



Sit Means Sit Dog training will let you use food or toys if you want to or if your dog responds to them, but they are not required.

How To Train a Dog That Doesnt Like Food or Toys : Natural Training

Natural training is using communication your dog understands and use on themselves. No corrective collars, no food or toys. I have honestly not experimented a lot with this type of training but would like to learn more on it. I found this nice website that is all about it, you can see it at Pam Shaw Canine Consultant. He has a DVD available and I think Im going to order it myself and see what its all about.

I am sure there is more available on the internet about him and on Natural Dog Training. Do a search for it and see what you can find.

To sum this all up, if you have a Dog That Doesnt Like Food or Toys then throw out the reward based training and try something else! It is Okay! Dont let others make you feel bad because you dont use food or toys with your dog. The important thing is finding something that Works!

I would also like to point out, all of these methods are great even if your dog does like food or toys, but maybe you would like to try a different method.

Food or Toys are great to use during training if your dog finds them rewarding! However, dont get frustrated if your dog has no interest in either. There are plenty of other methods out there that dont use food or toys. I hope I helped you find some that will work for you.

Happy Training!

powered by Fotopedia

Image Credits:
Dobie Pic: Pato_Garza @ Flickr


Amy @ Talented K9
talentedk9@yahoo.com
www.talentedk9.com

Read More..

New Zealand Farm working Dogs 6 Common Health Problems

--> By Dr Clive Dalton

 

Internal parasites

Hook worm (Uncinaria)

About 50% of dogs are infected with hookworm.  Eggs develop in the soil and larvae can burrow through the animals skin.  They mature inside the dog and are passed out to complete the cycle.   Some dogs have developed a high resistance to hookworm infection and may only show lack of energy when working.

Signs:

*  Unthriftiness.

*  Anaemia.

*  Coma and death. 

Prevention

*  Dont house dogs on dirt floors.

*  Steam-clean kennels and move to clean ground.

*  Keep dogs away from infected areas.

*  Consult your vet for a drenching programme.

   

 Roundworms  (Toxocara canis)

The most common worm in dogs.  Pups get infected by migrating larvae in the bitchs tissue.  Many of them will not show signs of infection but the worms will be there.

Signs:

*  Pot belly.

*  Intermittent diarrhoea.

*  Nervousness.

*  Death in severe cases. 

Prevention

*  Contact vet for appropriate treatment.

*  Treat pups at 2, 4, and 6 weeks of age.

*  Keep a clean kennel.

*  Keep a clean food storage area.

*  Maintain good hygiene with a whelping bitch.

*  Keep young children away from pups in dirty conditions.

  

Whipworm (Trichuris)

Causes inflammation of the caecum. 

Signs

*  Weight loss.

*  Diarrhoea.

*  Get worse as worm burden increases. 

Prevention

*  Check with vet for correct treatment.

*  Regular dosing every 6 months.

  

Fleaworm (Didylidium caninum)

This dog tapeworm grows inside the dog, and the eggs pass out in the faeces.  The flea then eats the eggs which grow into cysts inside the flea.  The dog then eats the flea to complete the cycle.

Signs

*  General unthrift. 

Prevention

*  Check with the vet for a correct diagnosis.

*  Treat the dog by breaking the cycle.

*  Drench the dog every 3 weeks.

*  Treat for fleas.

 Hydatids tapeworms 

There are three tapeworms which come under the common name of "hydatids" tapeworms so it can be confusing.  Its important to know their differences.

 True hydatids  (Echinococcus granulosus)

The main concern here is for human health, and thankfully because of past programmes the incidence of hydatids is very low.  Note though that it is still there and this parasite must be taken seriously.

If dogs eat the untreated offal of sheep, goats, pigs, and cattle, they can ingest cysts which are full of immature tapeworms.  On bursting they grow into small tape worms 3-6mm long in the small intestine of the dog and have little effect on its health. 

When these tapeworms mature their end sections drop off and are full of highly resistant eggs which can live on pasture for several months.  When eaten by an intermediate host (sheep, cow, pig, goat or human), these eggs hatch and develop into slow-growing cysts, usually in the liver and lungs.

The cysts generally dont affect livestock but in humans can grow to 50mm across and can be life threatening.  If a cyst burst inside a person, then the risk of further infection is very high and recovery low.  They face a lifetime of regular surgery to remove them.

 False hydatids (Taenia hydatigena)

This tapeworm lives in the dog and can grow up to 5m long.  The eggs pass out the dog on to pasture and if eaten by sheep, goats, cattle, pigs and deer hatch into larvae which during their migration though the body can damage the liver.  They end up in the abdominal cavity where a cyst up to 10mm in diameter develops..

 Sheep measles (Taenia ovis)

This tapeworm only moves between sheep and dogs.  Human health is not involved.  Although the tapeworm can grow to 1m long inside the dog, it doesnt seem to affect its health.  It has a typical tapeworm life cycle from inside the dog, picked up by grazing sheep as the eggs can last a long time pasture. 

The intermediate stage inside the sheep is where cysts appear in the heart muscle and diaphragm.  Infected carcasses have to be trimmed or rejected for export.  The cysts are hard creamy-white nodules about 5mm across and appear in .  In bad cases they will be all through the big muscles too, looking like an attack of measles.

They are no risk to humans but can put customers off buying lamb for ever.

Prevention of all "hydatids" in dogs

*  Register all dogs.

*  Treat them regularly according to veterinary advice.

*  Prevent all dogs from having contact with dead animals.

*  Dont feed any offal from any farm animal to a dog.  Offal is maybe cheap dog feed             but the risks of infection are too great.

*  Burn or bury all offal.

*  If you feed sheep or goat meat to dogs, either heat it to 72 degrees Celcius for at least an hour, or freeze it at minus 10 degrees C for at least 7 days.

*  Provide dog-proof enclosures for killing dog meat.

*  Provide secure housing for dogs.

  

External parasites 

Fleas

There is an old saying that "fleas are good for dogs, they remind them that theyre dogs!"  This is a lie.  Fleas dont breed on dogs, they breed in the dirt and debris of the kennel and surrounding area, where larvae develop into adult fleas.  These then invade the dog and cause great irritation.  Constant scratching can damage the skin and allow secondary problems such as anaemia and loss of condition to arise.

Fleas breed faster in warmer weather - so be on guard in summer and autumn.  Modern flea collars work well with protection for up to 4 months.  Its a good idea to clean up the kennels with insecticide too to reduce the population.  Follow the label with all insecticides.

 Lice

These are common on dogs but dont show much effect.  A really heavy infection will cause anaemia.  Lice only live on the dog so there is no need to treat the kennel area.  Kill the lice on the dog with some of the modern treatments (see your veterinarian) and that will fix the problem.

 Cattle tick (Haemophysalis longicornis)

This is the only tick found in NZ and can be a nuisance on cattle and deer if present in large numbers.  Dogs will easily pick them up during work.  The tick sucks blood, becomes engorged and then drops off.  Its not until the animal is heavily infested that it may be of concern.

Dont pull the ticks off the dog as the head remains in the skin and can cause infection.  They can be removed by kerosene but its best to treat the dog with a correct insecticide.  Check with your vet.

 Ear mites (Otodectes)

Causes irritation in the dogs ears and may lead to secondary infections by bacteria and fungi.  Consult your vet if your dog is scratching or shaking its ears which can be very sensitive.

 Mange mites

Demodex and Sarcoptes mites are the cause of mange in dogs.  If the dog is scratching a lot, is losing hair and there are secondary skin infections present, then check if mites or consult your vet.  These mites burrow down into the skin and theres a chance that they can infect humans.

So dont delay with treatment, as bad infections can take a long time to eradicate.  DO NOT put the dogs in the sheep swim dip or shower, or use any sheep pour-on treatment.  This could kill the dog.

  

Virus diseases 

Distemper

This can be a very nasty disease in dogs and very distressing for owners as they see their dogs taking fits.  Signs include:

*  Fever.

*  Depression and loss of appetite.

*  Running nose and eyes.

*  Coughing.

*  Scouring.

*  Fits, yelping and twitching.

Its caused by a virus, usually widespread among dogs, and can be picked up from contaminated objects like clothing.  It spreads from dog to dog by moisture from eyes and nose.

Incubation is about 10 days during which the virus affects many organs such as the gut, lungs and brain.  Many dogs (about 50%) develop sufficient antibodies in a couple of weeks to control the disease and recover well.

Dogs with no antibody resistance will die.  Bad cases may recover but the dog may have impaired eyesight for the rest of its days.  It is essential to vaccinate when the dog is 6-8 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks of age.  This is usually combined with parvo vaccination.  Then an annual booster may be needed if the dog isnt in contact with other dogs that challenges its immunity.  Check with your vet for details.

  

Parvovirus

A really distressing disease for both dog and owner.  The virus is excreted in the faeces of infected or carrier dogs and can survive in the environment for some days.  Incubation takes from 1-5 days but its not certain how it spreads.  These pups become depressed and die.

One form of parvo (Cardiac) affects the heart muscle of pups under 4 months old, and the other (Enteric) is seen in dogs of all ages.  These dogs vomit and have a severe foul-smelling diarrhoea.  Blood may show in the faeces.  The dog will be depressed and run a temperature.

Vaccination against parvo is essential for all pups and is usually tied in with distemper protection.  Consult your vet for details.

  

Infectious hepatitis

Not very common but can be devastating. 

Signs are: 

*  Vomiting and diarrhoea.

*  Fever

*  Thirst

*  Listless

*  Discharge from eyes and nose.

*  Red mucous membranes.

The virus is spread in all the dogs excretions and attacks the liver and other vital organs.  Prevention is by vaccinating young pups and is tied in with distemper and parvo protection.  Consult your vet for directions.

Other viruses

There are many other viruses that can affect dogs and appear as epidemics in districts after introduction by a carrier dog.  So its a good idea to isolate a new dog for a while to make sure its not a carrier.  Check what vaccinations a newly purchase dog has had, and discuss vaccination with your vet against these potential problems

Read More..