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Selasa, 03 Mei 2016

New Zealand Farm working Dogs 6 Common Health Problems

--> By Dr Clive Dalton


 
Internal parasites

Hook worm (Uncinaria)
About 50% of dogs are infected with hookworm.  Eggs develop in the soil and larvae can burrow through the animals skin.  They mature inside the dog and are passed out to complete the cycle.   Some dogs have developed a high resistance to hookworm infection and may only show lack of energy when working.

Signs:
*  Unthriftiness.
*  Anaemia.
*  Coma and death. 
Prevention
*  Dont house dogs on dirt floors.
*  Steam-clean kennels and move to clean ground.
*  Keep dogs away from infected areas.
*  Consult your vet for a drenching programme.
   
 Roundworms  (Toxocara canis)
The most common worm in dogs.  Pups get infected by migrating larvae in the bitchs tissue.  Many of them will not show signs of infection but the worms will be there.

Signs:
*  Pot belly.
*  Intermittent diarrhoea.
*  Nervousness.
*  Death in severe cases. 
Prevention
*  Contact vet for appropriate treatment.
*  Treat pups at 2, 4, and 6 weeks of age.
*  Keep a clean kennel.
*  Keep a clean food storage area.
*  Maintain good hygiene with a whelping bitch.
*  Keep young children away from pups in dirty conditions.
  
Whipworm (Trichuris)
Causes inflammation of the caecum. 
Signs
*  Weight loss.
*  Diarrhoea.
*  Get worse as worm burden increases. 
Prevention
*  Check with vet for correct treatment.
*  Regular dosing every 6 months.
  
Fleaworm (Didylidium caninum)
This dog tapeworm grows inside the dog, and the eggs pass out in the faeces.  The flea then eats the eggs which grow into cysts inside the flea.  The dog then eats the flea to complete the cycle.

Signs
*  General unthrift. 
Prevention
*  Check with the vet for a correct diagnosis.
*  Treat the dog by breaking the cycle.
*  Drench the dog every 3 weeks.
*  Treat for fleas.

 Hydatids tapeworms 
There are three tapeworms which come under the common name of "hydatids" tapeworms so it can be confusing.  Its important to know their differences.

 True hydatids  (Echinococcus granulosus)
The main concern here is for human health, and thankfully because of past programmes the incidence of hydatids is very low.  Note though that it is still there and this parasite must be taken seriously.

If dogs eat the untreated offal of sheep, goats, pigs, and cattle, they can ingest cysts which are full of immature tapeworms.  On bursting they grow into small tape worms 3-6mm long in the small intestine of the dog and have little effect on its health. 

When these tapeworms mature their end sections drop off and are full of highly resistant eggs which can live on pasture for several months.  When eaten by an intermediate host (sheep, cow, pig, goat or human), these eggs hatch and develop into slow-growing cysts, usually in the liver and lungs.

The cysts generally dont affect livestock but in humans can grow to 50mm across and can be life threatening.  If a cyst burst inside a person, then the risk of further infection is very high and recovery low.  They face a lifetime of regular surgery to remove them.

 False hydatids (Taenia hydatigena)
This tapeworm lives in the dog and can grow up to 5m long.  The eggs pass out the dog on to pasture and if eaten by sheep, goats, cattle, pigs and deer hatch into larvae which during their migration though the body can damage the liver.  They end up in the abdominal cavity where a cyst up to 10mm in diameter develops..

 Sheep measles (Taenia ovis)
This tapeworm only moves between sheep and dogs.  Human health is not involved.  Although the tapeworm can grow to 1m long inside the dog, it doesnt seem to affect its health.  It has a typical tapeworm life cycle from inside the dog, picked up by grazing sheep as the eggs can last a long time pasture. 

The intermediate stage inside the sheep is where cysts appear in the heart muscle and diaphragm.  Infected carcasses have to be trimmed or rejected for export.  The cysts are hard creamy-white nodules about 5mm across and appear in .  In bad cases they will be all through the big muscles too, looking like an attack of measles.

They are no risk to humans but can put customers off buying lamb for ever.


Prevention of all "hydatids" in dogs
*  Register all dogs.
*  Treat them regularly according to veterinary advice.
*  Prevent all dogs from having contact with dead animals.
*  Dont feed any offal from any farm animal to a dog.  Offal is maybe cheap dog feed             but the risks of infection are too great.
*  Burn or bury all offal.
*  If you feed sheep or goat meat to dogs, either heat it to 72 degrees Celcius for at least an hour, or freeze it at minus 10 degrees C for at least 7 days.
*  Provide dog-proof enclosures for killing dog meat.
*  Provide secure housing for dogs.
  
External parasites 
Fleas
There is an old saying that "fleas are good for dogs, they remind them that theyre dogs!"  This is a lie.  Fleas dont breed on dogs, they breed in the dirt and debris of the kennel and surrounding area, where larvae develop into adult fleas.  These then invade the dog and cause great irritation.  Constant scratching can damage the skin and allow secondary problems such as anaemia and loss of condition to arise.

Fleas breed faster in warmer weather - so be on guard in summer and autumn.  Modern flea collars work well with protection for up to 4 months.  Its a good idea to clean up the kennels with insecticide too to reduce the population.  Follow the label with all insecticides.

 Lice
These are common on dogs but dont show much effect.  A really heavy infection will cause anaemia.  Lice only live on the dog so there is no need to treat the kennel area.  Kill the lice on the dog with some of the modern treatments (see your veterinarian) and that will fix the problem.

 Cattle tick (Haemophysalis longicornis)
This is the only tick found in NZ and can be a nuisance on cattle and deer if present in large numbers.  Dogs will easily pick them up during work.  The tick sucks blood, becomes engorged and then drops off.  Its not until the animal is heavily infested that it may be of concern.

Dont pull the ticks off the dog as the head remains in the skin and can cause infection.  They can be removed by kerosene but its best to treat the dog with a correct insecticide.  Check with your vet.

 Ear mites (Otodectes)
Causes irritation in the dogs ears and may lead to secondary infections by bacteria and fungi.  Consult your vet if your dog is scratching or shaking its ears which can be very sensitive.

 Mange mites
Demodex and Sarcoptes mites are the cause of mange in dogs.  If the dog is scratching a lot, is losing hair and there are secondary skin infections present, then check if mites or consult your vet.  These mites burrow down into the skin and theres a chance that they can infect humans.

So dont delay with treatment, as bad infections can take a long time to eradicate.  DO NOT put the dogs in the sheep swim dip or shower, or use any sheep pour-on treatment.  This could kill the dog.
  
Virus diseases 
Distemper
This can be a very nasty disease in dogs and very distressing for owners as they see their dogs taking fits.  Signs include:

*  Fever.
*  Depression and loss of appetite.
*  Running nose and eyes.
*  Coughing.
*  Scouring.
*  Fits, yelping and twitching.

Its caused by a virus, usually widespread among dogs, and can be picked up from contaminated objects like clothing.  It spreads from dog to dog by moisture from eyes and nose.

Incubation is about 10 days during which the virus affects many organs such as the gut, lungs and brain.  Many dogs (about 50%) develop sufficient antibodies in a couple of weeks to control the disease and recover well.

Dogs with no antibody resistance will die.  Bad cases may recover but the dog may have impaired eyesight for the rest of its days.  It is essential to vaccinate when the dog is 6-8 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks of age.  This is usually combined with parvo vaccination.  Then an annual booster may be needed if the dog isnt in contact with other dogs that challenges its immunity.  Check with your vet for details.
  
Parvovirus
A really distressing disease for both dog and owner.  The virus is excreted in the faeces of infected or carrier dogs and can survive in the environment for some days.  Incubation takes from 1-5 days but its not certain how it spreads.  These pups become depressed and die.

One form of parvo (Cardiac) affects the heart muscle of pups under 4 months old, and the other (Enteric) is seen in dogs of all ages.  These dogs vomit and have a severe foul-smelling diarrhoea.  Blood may show in the faeces.  The dog will be depressed and run a temperature.

Vaccination against parvo is essential for all pups and is usually tied in with distemper protection.  Consult your vet for details.
  
Infectious hepatitis
Not very common but can be devastating. 
Signs are: 
*  Vomiting and diarrhoea.
*  Fever
*  Thirst
*  Listless
*  Discharge from eyes and nose.
*  Red mucous membranes.

The virus is spread in all the dogs excretions and attacks the liver and other vital organs.  Prevention is by vaccinating young pups and is tied in with distemper and parvo protection.  Consult your vet for directions.

Other viruses
There are many other viruses that can affect dogs and appear as epidemics in districts after introduction by a carrier dog.  So its a good idea to isolate a new dog for a while to make sure its not a carrier.  Check what vaccinations a newly purchase dog has had, and discuss vaccination with your vet against these potential problems

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Minggu, 17 April 2016

Be a Resource Full Puppy Owner

We though wed best follow up our joint-post about Books for Before & After you get a Puppy or Dog with some further resources. 

Because lets face it - you can never have enough resources to consult with a new puppy in the family! 

Here are some of our primary go-to places and wed love to hear your suggestions in the comments section below - lets turn this into a great resource-full page for everyone!

Mia & Julie


The Other End of The Leash ~ Patricia McConnell
In 2012, McConnell gave her website a major overhaul. Readers can now follow along her weekly blog, as well as search by interest area and easily link to relevant blog posts and videos.


McConnell’s Reading Room has drop down menus where you can access Training Your DogBehavior & HealthSolving Behavior Problemsand Finding Resources. Have a question about aggression? Go to Solving Behavior Problems. What do you think the "Guilty Look" is all about? Check out the Emotions section in Behavior & Health. 


The Art & Science of Animal Behavior ~ Sophia Yin
An incredibly user-friendly website jam packed with all sorts of information. Yin’s blog and resources are searchable so just type in a term (e.g. toilet training) and take a look! 



Julies favorite video shows counter conditioning of a dog displaying aggression.

Dog Star Daily ~ Ian Dunbar and co.
Dog Star Daily is a resource-laden website populated by Dunbar and a lot of other trainers. 




Take some time to look through their many many videos.

New resources to watch

AVSAB
The American Veterinary Society 
of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) new website includes a free newsletter (you can sign up using your email address or access the archives online) and blog. Considering that AVSAB tackles such topics as Cat Body Language as well as Post Traumatic Stress Disorder in Military dogs, it’s definitely a great resource for everyone!



Pet Pages
Pet Pages features content from lots of different sources. Animal behaviourist Kate Mornement writes regular posts on different topics that can be searched.




Commercial sites
Dr Joanne Righetti has helped Purina populate their Puppy Club website with helpful information.



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Selasa, 15 Maret 2016

The 1 Show Dog in America Is a Mess


The #1 show dog in America is "Lockenhaus Rumor Has It V" which is pictured above, and below, walking on its metatarsus, with its hock almost touching the ground.

This dog won "herding" even though it cannot herd, and cannot even walk as a dog should.



A German shepherd should not walk on its metatarsals, and they did not used to.




Below is the gait of a wolf.



What have breeders done to wreck the German Shepherd?

Quite a lot. 




And what would it look like if we did the same thing to a horse?  


A lot like this:


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How to Teach Your Puppy Not to Bite Part 6

Puppies are furry, friendly and programmed for learning. Now is the time to teach your puppy about the things that people, especially kids might do, that dogs do not naturally accept. Things like toddlers pulling his tail, people taking his toys, kids going near his food bowl or kids taking over his special sleeping area.

To prevent biting accidents later in life you can condition your puppy to tolerate and even enjoy any kind of handling. Give him hugs, pull gently on ears and tail, tug gently on his fur all over while at the same time feeding him goodies from your hand, or allowing him to chew on a yummy bone. Pairing with a treat can make even rough handling a positive experience. It is essential to use the goody in this type of conditioning – just doing strange things to the puppy will not necessarily teach him to tolerate this from others. When that toddler runs up and yanks on his tail, the dog is more likely to look at you as if to say “where’s my treat?”, rather than snapping at the annoyance. This touch desensitization should be done monthly throughout the dog’s life. Watch this video that illustrates the process. It is best for parents to start the process, but kids can take over once the puppy shows acceptance and enjoyment of the activity. Only adults should do this with adult dogs.


Dogs do not naturally share, but you can teach your puppy to give up his toys, bones, food and resting place by associating the approach of people with great things. When you first get your puppy, feed him at least some of his food by hand. If he shows any sign of being unhappy with you near his food bowl, then feed all of his food by hand for the first two weeks. This teaches the puppy that hands near his food is good. As he is eating from his bowl walk by and toss something really yummy near the bowl, so that the puppy leaves the bowl to get the treat. This teaches the puppy that it is OK to move away from his bowl when a person approaches. After a few meals, move to tossing treats into his bowl while he is eating and then to putting your hand into the bowl with the treat. This teaches the puppy that people approaching means good things. Do not take the bowl and away and give it back. This teaches the puppy that you are unreliable and he needs to protect his food or eat it really fast!

Practice exchanges with your puppy, where you get him interested in something of equal value to the toy or bone that he is playing with and you give him yours and take away his. Or give him a great treat in exchange for his toy and then give the toy back. Sit with him in his resting place and give him toys and treats. Make sure that every experience the puppy has with people approaching his things or special places come with a great reward and you will have a puppy that is happy to share and is less likely to become defensive later in life.

Read more about teaching your puppy to share

Read the rest of the articles in this series:

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

 
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