Training Your Dog to Run

How to Train Your Furry Friend to Be Your Running Partner

Dogs truly are a gift to humankind. They offer a unique companionship. Without ever saying a word, a dog will always want to be with you, always be happy to see you, and always love and depend on your love for their entire life. The friendship is pure and irreplaceable as a dog will never expect more from you other than your love and care. Naturally, if youre a runner and/or enjoy hiking adventures, your dog can be an amazing companion who will want to go however far you go, however long you go, whatever time of day. Being a responsible pet owner is being prepared so they can enjoy these adventures with you. 

Since the moment I began learning about Jane Goodall in elementary school on my own account, animal behavior has always been a huge intrigue for me. The beautiful thing about animals is they innately will strive for love, protection, and survival within their communities. Animals, just like humans, are innately active, some more capable than others. Its our job to responsibly prepare them so they can always be a healthy running partner. Below is an expanded version of my 2XU Q&A article on how to train your dog companion to be the runner he/she is meant to be. 

1. What are the benefits of running with your dog?

My two dogs are family: my 7-year-old labrador, Max, goes the distance on runs and swims. My 5-year-old boxer, Bruno, does sprints with me and chases me on my bike. The biggest benefit of running with your dog is to see their joy mirrors the exact same joy you have when you are out there running. To be able to share an activity you love with someone that will always be happy to be with you is a beautiful gift of companionship. You are their everything for their entire life. 

2. What are the best breeds for running?

Different breeds have different abilities and/or limitations on how far or fast they can run with you. Any breed will want to run with you: how far and long will depend on its physiology and how well you train your dog. For example, short snouts can limit a dog on how well they can cool themselves or short legs can limit a dog how fast they can keep up with you. They cool off from their paw pads and panting. Therefore shorter snouts makes it more of a challenge for dogs to run long. Size, shape, length of legs, length of snout, weight, and density of fur coat all influence the type of runner your dog can be. Dogs cooling mechanisms are key to understand when it comes to running so keep these factors in mind when training your dog to run. This isnt a complete list but here are some breeds to keep in mind when choosing a running partner. 

According to Outside Magazine:

We both made the list, mom!

Rhodesian Ridgeback

Weimaraner

Border Collie

Australian Shepard

German Shepard

Dalmation 

Alaskan Malamute

Vizsla

Airedale Terrier

Jack Russel Terrier

Poodle

Belgian Shepard

English Setter

Siberian Huskey

German Pointer

Brittany Spaniel

Boxer

Labrador Retriever

Australian Cattle Dog

American Staffordshire Terrier

3. What is the safe age for dogs to start running? 

Two factors need to be kept in mind: 1) size of breed and 2) age. We need to be more careful with younger and older dogs as they are either still developing into their adult phase or are slower to heal/regenerate cells. Smaller breeds tend to live longer; therefore, their rate of physiological maturity is slower than larger breeds. By keeping these two factors in mind, follow the key rule: dont do too much, too soon, too fast. Sound familiar? What applies to humans applies to dogs. Allow puppies to be puppies especially during those first six months dont do anything extreme. Focus more on dog commands (such as heel, sit, stay) rather than distance or speed. Commands and skills are important to incorporate into your dog training as it can save your dogs life on a run. The more you work on these commands and allow your dog to practice, the better he will become. 

For example, I adopted Max when he was six weeks old with the full intention he would be my running partner. Beginning at 2-3 months we would take casual 1-2 mile walks very early in the morning at the beach to avoid distractions. Puppies just like kids are VERY easily distracted so when training them aim to eliminate as many distractions as possible. We would practice commands on and off the leash and then I would allow him to splash around in the waves. By six months old, we started running 2-3 miles together only a couple times a week still focusing fully on the commands of him obeying on and off leash. From 6-12 months, I gradually extended the runs to 4-5 miles and started picking up the pace always listening to what his threshold was. After one year of training focusing primarily on commands and building mileage very gradually, then you can build more and run more often always listening to how your dog responds. At his peak shape, Max was able to handle 20-22mi trail runs at my pace and/or 7-8mi tempo runs at 6:00 min/mi pace. Anyone that has run with Max and I can attest how obedient he is when it comes to running out there. We usually opt for remote trails where there is less ped "traffic". He prefers cooler weather, though, like his mom. 

Keep in mind that how well trained your dog becomes is very fluid. If you dont maintain it then they lose it and you shouldnt aim to have your dog aiming to kill mileage all year. Their bodies require rest and periodization too. Be patient with your dog and give yourself a year of gradual mileage build up. 

Sunrise at 10,064

4. How far can dogs safely go? 

Just like humans, there is no magic number and every dog breed is different. With most dog breeds, you want to be mindful and not be selfish to push them too long. They will run till the end of earth for you, but you dont want to burn them out. Ive taken Max on +20 milers on the trails during cool weather when hes very well trained, but we arent doing this every weekend. It would be once every couple months. Labs tend to be prone to joint problems and hip dysplasia. Therefore, I keep this in mind by giving him dog glucosamine supplements, aim to keep him at a lean body weight (yes, you need to be mindful of dog weight if you want him to safely be active on his joints), and dont do the really long runs too often. When hes moderately trained, he can handle a 10-12 miler in the trails at my pace a couple times per week. I normally would not exceed 30-40 miles/week with Max, but then again I am a low mileage runner as well. I will admit he does fall a little out of shape when I train for an Ironman because I am running much less. Its always harder to train a dog (or even a human for that matter) to go faster than go longer. Treat your dog like a human. Listen to what their body is telling you. If they are starting to lag behind on the runs then back off the pace and/or cut the distance short. The human will need to be more patient than the dog when it comes to building mileage safely. 

5. How do you train your dog to drink/eat on the run?

You will need to train your dog to drink from your hydration pack/bottle and eat while on the run. This is more important for long runs and probably not as necessary for shorter runs. If its hot, carry more hydration for your dog and slow down the pace substantially. Dogs have a different cooling mechanism than humans do. As humans, we have a higher surface area where our sweat glands will cool us off when sweat evaporates. Dogs do not have that luxury. Chill the pace or instead go for a swim with your pooch on very hot days.

Introduce drinking from your hydration bottle/pack very early in your walks and/or runs training the dog you will not go further until they take a drink. Certain dog breeds can be stubborn, but again training a dog takes a huge amount of patience since they will not get it the first try. Always praise your dog when they listen. A treat is nice, but dont get in the bad habit of allowing your dog to associate that every good deed will yield a treat. Its like when humans develop the bad habit treating food as a reward. All they ask is for your love. Train your dog to seek for your praise saying: good boy or good girl and massaging them behind the ears goes a very long way for dogs. 

There are certain foods that are safe for dogs so learn to carry dog safe foods and electrolytes enough for your dog and yourself for the long runs. Labs have voracious appetites so my Max will eat anything. I give him a snack every hour when we are running for two hours or longer on the trails. I give him a sip of hydration about every mile depending on the outside temperature. Here are some food items that are unsafe for dogs.

6. How does temperature affect a dogs run? 

Mt. Islip Summit

For heat: Dogs cooling mechanisms are different than ours and less efficient than humans. They cool off only from their panting and paw pads so they will warm up quicker than you. Give them extra hydration, monitor they aren’t overheating, and slow the pace. 

For rain: they love it! Most at least. Dogs are like little kids at heart and they will play with you out there for hours. 

For cold/snow: Some breeds definitely can tolerate colder temps and are made for it. The colder it is, the longer and better they can run such as huskies. My lab absolutely loves it! My boxer is more cautious and not a huge fan of cooler temps so he wears the dog shoes as his paw pads are more sensitive to cold. 

 7. Who should dictate the pace – the human or the dog? 

Mt. Baldy Summit

The human commands the direction of the run. The dog should influence the pace. This goes back to listening to what your dog can tolerate and what he/she is trained for. Dogs, just like humans, can be trained to go amazing distances or speeds, but the training must be gradual so they don’t get hurt. They will want to please you so will go as long as you go so just make sure they are safely trained for it. I usually end up taking my dogs out on my long recovery runs so it is a run that is more for them than me. The human should always dictate the pace within the parameters and capabilities of their pup.  

The human is the alpha so the human needs to command the pace and direction of the run. If the dog learns that it can do whatever it wants and you follow him/her, it can lead to an unsafe situation for your dog. On leash, your dog needs to learn that it should not pull or tug on you rather run with you. When off leash, your dog needs to learn that there still is an invisible leash and should always stay within a certain distance of you as you run along together. 

8. What other issues are you likely to encounter when running with a dog? 

Strawberry Peak Summit

Dogs can have an off day. Learn to read their signs. If they just aren’t their energetic selves then call it early and shorten the run. If you’re running in populated areas, train your dog to listen to your commands because sometimes you might run into some humans who just don’t like to be close to dogs. Respect others personal space unless invited.

Socialize your dog as early and often as possible. Take them to dog beaches and dog parks so they learn how to behave around a pack of other dogs and humans. Train them to travel with you. Train them to behave in different settings. So that when you take them on a run, they will just flow with you as if you both were one. I absolutely love my dogs and am so grateful I can share their beautiful joy outdoors with me.

Sounds like too much work? Like any relationship--partner, child, parent, student, athlete--however much you are willing to put into it is what you will get out of it. Your lovable, cuddly popcorn-smelling buddy will be an amazing running partner and every minute will be golden out there, 
human and dog together. 

Maxs adventures @irondogmax

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Happy Easter! Tuesdays puppies are one week old

This week has gone by so fast, and, again, I have found myself way behind with posts. Sorry about that as there is a lot to report.  Lets start with Tuesdays puppies, who are now one week old. They have already doubled their weight at birth:

Volt (lime) was 221 gr at birth, now 515 gr

Vincent (blue) was 232, now 470

Viola (pink) was 210, now 465

Vonnie (yellow)was 215, now 460

Vivica (red) was 232, now 470 gr

The first few days were a bit difficult as Tuesday was producing too much milk and puppies could not keep up with her "production".  She was uncomfortable, but this quickly passed and things have normalized.

Tuesday has a good appetite but she has not touched dry food yet. She has been living on raw venison, mixed with rice and egg, plus she drinks goat milk. Occasionally she gets several cubes of cheese. She turned out to be a superb mother, and so far she has been staying with the pups in the whelping box all the time. They are spotless clean. What I like about her that she not too possessive of her pups. She completely trusts us, and even if dogs bark outside my den, she does not get too upset about it

Happy Easter Everybody!

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Dachshund Nola Reviews Spring Naturals Dog Food

Hey, everyone!


Today were working with Spring Naturals for a review of their all natural dry and canned dog food. The pups have loved this, so lets get right to it!

Heres a bit about Spring Naturals:

SPRING.

It’s all about vitality, a fresh state of mind. It’s the feeling you get when you consider the abundance of life, and all the good things from the earth that grow and thrive. That’s what inspired us to create the Spring Naturals line.

IT STARTED WITH A SIMPLE IDEA.

When we set out to develop Spring Naturals dinners and treats, we had a single objective in mind: to develop a complete family of wholesome products that would provide no-compromise pet nutrition. Every recipe would be made with only select, market-quality ingredients from sources in the United States. So with the help of some very smart animal nutritionists who shared our passion for pets, Spring Naturals was born. Welcome to a fresh new era in pet nutrition.

OUR PASSION FOR PETS RUNS DEEP.

Spring Naturals Dinners and Treats are brought to you by Performance Pet Products. We are a family-owned firm that has helped nourish millions of people and companion animals since 1946. We promise that every Spring Naturals product is made from premium quality, domestically sourced ingredients right here in the US.

SPRING INTO ACTION.

We’re so confident your pet will thrive on Spring Naturals products that we back them with a 100% satisfaction guarantee. We invite you to discover what makes our recipes so good, and thank you for visiting this site.

We were sent Grain Free Beef Dinner Dry Food and Grain Free Turkey Stew Canned Food. Heres the ingredients for those:

Beef Dinner

Beef, chickpeas, peas, dried eggs, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), dicalcium phosphate, sun-cured alfalfa, flaxseed, sweet potatoes, natural flavors, calcium carbonate, salt, spinach, tomato pomace, choline chloride, potassium chloride, blueberries, cranberries, apricots, carrots, zinc proteinate, iron proteinate, copper proteinate, manganese proteinate, sodium selenite, calcium iodate, vitamin E supplement, thiamine mononitrate, niacin supplement, calcium pantothenate, biotin, vitamin A supplement, riboflavin supplement, vitamin B12 supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, vitamin D3 supplement, folic acid, chicory root extract, dandelion greens, mixed tocopherols (preservative), rosemary extract.







Turkey Stew

Turkey, turkey broth, vegetable broth, sunflower oil, carrots, peas, dicalcium phosphate, flaxseed oil, calcium carbonate, salt, spinach, potassium chloride, agar agar, lecithin, choline chloride, sodium acid pyrophosphate, salmon oil, dandelion greens, apricots, blueberries, cranberries, chicory root extract, zinc proteinate, iron proteinate, copper proteinate, manganese proteinate, sodium selenite, calcium iodate, vitamin E supplement, thiamine mononitrate, niacin supplement, calcium pantothenate, biotin, vitamin A supplement, riboflavin supplement, vitamin B12 supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, vitamin D3 supplement, folic acid.









Spring Naturals makes kibble, canned and treats for both dogs and cats. Their kibble comes in the following flavors: Beef, Salmon, Chicken, Turkey, and Lamb. Their canned array is: Beef, Chicken, Turkey, Chicken and Lamb & Salmon.
Having all those different flavors is a great way to feed a rotation diet to a pup that may have a more sensitive stomach!




Pike and Olivia have been on the kibble for 2 weeks now, and they love it! Its 26% protein, and since Nola drops weight like crazy on anything below 32%, she sat this taste test out. She enjoyed the canned, though!

Pike has been eating 1/2c, though Ill be bumping Mr. Skinny up to 3/4c soon. Olivia is getting 1/4c to 1/2, depending on how hungry she acts.
Like I said, theyre really enjoying it! Pike can be finicky about his food, and hes yet to turn his nose up at it. The smell of it isnt horrible like some dog food, which my sensitive nose appreciates. The pieces are a good size for both small and large breeds, and its available in 4lbs, 12lbs and 26lbs. The price range is $15 to $64 at Chewy.com

I was quite happy with this food! Ill be adding it to the dogs diet every few bags. Highly recommend if your dog is okay with lower protein!



- Dachshund Mommy

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Alabama blood tracking dachshund puppies

This picture of Tom Munoz was taken at the 2011 UBT Trackfest in Arkansas. Tom is holding Jack (Joeri/Greta son) and Meg (mom to the current puppies).

Tom and Jackie Munozs puppies have turned two weeks old. A couple of boys are still available to serious blood tracking homes (see pictures below)! Both parents of the litter are active, accomplished blood trackers.

Dam of the litter, Meg, is a granddaughter of Agata v Moosbach-Zuzelek, and she was sired by Nicki von Velbert, who was imported from Germany. The pups were sired by eight-year-old Fred (Frederick der Trakker Yergz), a full brother to Gail Bergers Pepper. Freds lines go back to Asko von der Drachenburg, Sabina von Moosbach-Zuzelek, Traelborgs Herbert "Skyder", vom Dornenfeld and Springwoods.

Tom and Jackie Munozs website is at www.alabamadeertracking.com. They can be contacted at deertrackingdog@gmail.com or 256-426-3199. Pups are in Alabama.

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Dog Video Index

Index to Finding Dog Videos on my Youtube Channels:

Subscribe now!      Supernaturalbc2008      &     Supernaturalbc2009

Here is a collection of free how to videos for training dogs using positive (force free) approaches to do basic behaviors, tricks, dog sports and service dog tasks. 

There are also videos on training principles and applications, natural history of dogs, husbandry (care and play), improving your observation skills and more. Stay tuned as more video are added all the time!

Please share them with others who can benefit from them. CC means the video have been closed captioned for the hearing impaired and non-native English speakers.

Getting Started in Clicker Training
Dog Training Made Easy 
Basic Clicker Training Equipment
Getting Started with Clicker Training CC
Capturing a Sit
Adding a Cue to a New Behavior (sit example) CC
Proofing A Cue for Handler Position etc CC
Life Skill: Self Control, Leave it or Zen 
Capturing Eye Contact CC
Teaching a Nose Target
Shaping a Paw Target from a Nose Target 
Basic Paw Target Work the Clock
Adding Distance to a Paw Target (and other behaviors)
Adding Duration to a Behavior
Praise vs Marker Word
Generalizing Eye Contact
Three Ways to Increase Value of Kibble for Training
Teaching Take & Give CC
Shaping a Hold with Tugging CC
Leash Handling Skills 

Training Concepts

Baiting, Luring & Rewarding CC
Using Food Tubes CC NEW!
Training Triangle (Building Reinforcement History for Success) CC
Lumping and Splitting Criteria CC
Counter Conditioning Desensitization, & Aversive Counter Conditioning CC
Counter Conditioning the Clicker CC (but clicks not marked)
Trigger Stacking & Stress Hormones
Training with Opposites CC
Opposition Reflex
Ian Dunbar on using Classical Conditioning to Overcome Fear CC
Does Your Dog Understand a Verbal Cue? CC
Putting an Unwanted Behavior under Stimulus Control CC
Stimulus Control "The No" Part 2

Habits of Effective Clicker Trainers
Part 1 Using Rewards CC
Part 2 Timing CC
Part 3 Criteria CC
Part 4 Trainer Focus

Clicker Training Puppies
5 week old Puppies Sit
7.5 Week old Puppies Leave it CC
Socializing a Puppy to Potentially Scary Objects CC

Impulse Control Behaviors
Leave it or Zen 
Self Control Through Doorways 1 dog
Self Control Through Doorways 2 dogs
Stimulus Control: Putting A Unwanted Behavior on Cue Part 1
Stimulus Control "The No" Part 2 NEW!

Training Recall
Part 1 Capturing the Check in CC
Shaping a Recall Part 2
Part 3 Resisting Distractions CC
Part 4 Premack Principle

Dog Care nail clipping, feeding, toys etc
Crate Training Tips CC
Is Your Dog Scared of Having her Nails Clipped?
Teeth Brushing: Teaching a Dog to Be Comfortable CC 
Raw Feeding for Dogs Part 1 Introduction
Raw Feeding Part 2 Myths and Facts
Cheap Durable Squeaky Toys!
3 Great Toys for Dogs
Free Tug Toys You Can Make CC
3 Toys from Garden Hose
4 Tips to Getting Your Dog to Take Pills CC
Front Leg Protection: dogs with surgery/injuries CC NEW!
20 Activities for Dogs on Crate Rest for injury, TPLO surgery, Heartworm Treatment etc CC
Exercise and Dogs: How Much is Enough? CC
Interrupting Dog to Dog Play: Teaching Enough 

Sue Ailsbys OLD Training Levels (an excellent program to train your dog through to teach both you and the dog the basics of clicker training.  See her web-site for more information.)

Level 1 Come, down, sit, nose target, zen (leave it) CC
Level 2 Part A Distance (around), Down, Go Mat, Handling, Sit, Stand, (stick) Target, Watch, Zen CC
Level 2 Part B Sit stay, down stay, stand stay, come, leash manners, crate, trick CC
Level 3 Part A Crate, go bed, down stay, sit stay, front, finish, heel, retrieve, shaped trick (shut the door), target, contact CC
Level 3 Part B  Stand stay, sit at 10 feet, down at 10 feet, watch, distance (around) at 4 feet, stand, loose leash, handling (pee on cue), scenting CC


General Training Principles & Approaches
Jessie Learns by Mimicry
Chaining (forward)Behaviors
Chaining Multiples of a Behavior
Back Chaining
4 Ways to Add Distance to a Behavior
Shaping a Paw Target from a Nose Target
Chaining a Paw-Sit for Send outs
Does Your Dog REALLY Understand a Verbal Cue? CC
Putting an Unwanted Behavior Under Stimulus Control CC
Teaching a Dog to Follow a Finger Point CC 
Teaching Opposites to Dogs CC

Recall
Capturing the Check in Part 1
Shaping the Recall Part 2
Distractions Part 3
Premacking Part 4

Retrieve
Bird Dog Retrieve to Hand part 1 CC
Bird Dog Retrieve to Hand Part 2 CC
Secrets of Teach a Hot Dog Retrieve Part 1
Hot Dog Retrieve Part 2
Hot Dog Retrieve Part 3
Newspaper Retrieve with Verbal Cue Only
Newspaper Retrieve Part 2
Unloading the Dryer Part 1 (Put Your Toys Away)
Unloading Dryer Part 2
Unloading Dryer Part 3
Unloading the Dryer Part 4 
Unloading Dryer Part 5
Dumbbell Retrieve
Dumbbell Over 2 Hurdles
Picking up Small Objects
Dog Dish Retrieve
Plastic Dish Retrieve

Preparing for the Competition Ring
Introducing a Dog to Ring Gates: Desensitization
Building Focus in the Ring
Focussed Ring Gate Entries and Exits
Rear End Awareness

Rally Obedience training
CKC Rally O Trial
Proofing Eye Contact heeling on uneven surface
Rally O Practice
CARO Course 1 Lucy For Exhibition Only
CARO Course 2 Lucy First CARO Qualifying run (Q)
CARO Course 3 Lucy Second CARO Q
Level 1 Course Lucy First Q in Cyber Rally
Level 1 Course Lucy Second Q in Cyber Rally
Level 1 Course Jessie (her first Q ever!)
Pivots and Turns Tutorial

CARO Novice Moves (Canadian Association of Rally Obedience)
1. weave once
2. halt sit stand
3. halt sit down
4. halt sit down sit
5. halt sit walk around
6. sit down walk around
7. right turn
8. left turn
9. about turn right
10. about U turn left
11. 270 right turn
12. 270 degree left turn
13. 360 degree right turn
14. 360 degree left turn
15. call front forward right
16. call front forward left
17. call front finish right
18. call front finish left
19. slow 20. fast 21. normal pace
22. halt side step right halt
23. 90 degree pivot right
24. 90 degree pivot left-tutorial
25. spiral right dog outside
26. spiral right dog inside
27. halt 1, 2, 3 steps forward
28. halt right turn 1 step halt
29. straight figure 8

CARO Advanced Level
44. Moving Down Around CC

CARO Working level
Barrel Racing

Agility
Clicker Training the Agility Teeter Totter
Shaping the Tunnel
Forest Agility
Lawn Chair Games
Cat House & Tunnel
Bench Jumping
Vacant Lot Agility
12 Weave Poles
Barrel Racing as preparation for front crosses

Treibball
Basics of Treibball CC
Treibball Practice in the House CC
Dog Learns Treibball
Nose Touch
Basic Nose Touch with Ball Biter
Shaping a Paw Target from a Nose Target
Send Outs Behind Ball
3 Tips for Playing Treibball
Handling Skill Games
Intermediate Treibball Practice
How to Make a Treibball Holder

Scenting
Muffin Tin Game CC
Shell Game CC
Observing On and Off Scent Trail
Trailing a Person
Scenting Glove in the Snow
Scent Fun with a Blanket
Scent  Hurdle Training
See also Scenting under Assistance Dog Tasks

Tricks
Dualing Dogs -Collection of Tricks Comparison of 2 Dog Styles
Ladder Walking CC
Ring Toss
Leg Weave CC 
Cover Your Eyes
Advanced Tricks
Get in the Suitcase
Stop, Drop & Roll
Your Feet on Mine
Getting Started with Skateboarding CC
How to Teach Your Dog to Skip Rope CC
Equipment for Dog Jump Rope
Turn & Backing Between Legs-Freestyle move CC

Observation Skills
Dog Play Techniques
Calming Signals During Training
Dog Gait Observation: Single Tracking Dogs Searching for Toy
Observe Lucy as she explores the house for the first time and plays with Jessie
CKC Rally Obedience Trial-Where are the points lost?
Scenting at Table
Compare and Contrast 2 dogs Skipping
Dog Language: A Pat on the Head  CC (on screen)

Techniques to Use with Fearful/Reactive/Aggressive Dogs
Counter Conditioning the Clicker CC (but clicks not marked)
BAT Behavioral Adjustment Training for Fear of Bicycle
Teaching Look at That (LAT) Game
Making a BAT Decoy Dog
Ian Dunbar on using Classical Conditioning to Overcome Fear CC
Leash Skills for Clicker Training 
Leash Walking Techniques for Aggressive, Reactive or Overexcited Dogs
Using Shaping and targeting to Overcome fear in Dogs Part 1
Using Shaping and targeting to overcome fear in Dogs Part 2 Adding Sound

Assistance Dog Tasks

Body Targeting
Out of Harms Way Protecting Your Service Dog  
Shaping a Shoulder Target
Backing into Small Spaces (seat on busses and places)
Part 2 Backing into Small Spaces 

Pulling Tasks
Tugging Part 1 CC
Tugging Part 2 CC
Pulling Up Blinds Part 1 CC
Pulling up Blinds Part 2 CC
Zipper Pull CC
Zipper Pulling Up CC
Zipper Pulling Down 

Pushing Tasks
Pushing Door Part 1 CC
Pushing the Door Part 2 CC

Assistance  Dog Retrieve
Teaching a Nose Touch
Touching Different Objects CC 
Teaching Take and Give
Teaching Hold with Tugging CC
Generalizing a Hold CC
Fine Tuning the "Take" CC

Light Switches
Shaping Explained Part 1 CC
Part 2 CC
Off and On with Extension CC

Sound & Other Medical Alerts (Diabetes, Alzheimers etc)
One Way Alert CC
Two Way Alert CC

Wheelchair Skills & Tasks
Part 1 CC
Part 2 CC

Unloading the Dryer Part 1 (Put Your Toys Away)
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4 
Part 5 

Scenting
Pairing Alert Behavior with the Scent CC
Putting Sniff on Cue CC
Introducing Containers CC
Scent Remedial Training CC
Making a Scent Training Wheel CC
Introducing a Scent Training Wheel to a Dog CC
Using the Scent Wheel to Add Distractions CC
Beginning the Search part A i CC
Beginning the Search Part A ii
Beginning the Search Part B
Height of Scent Part 1
Height of Scent Part 2
Scent Dilution Process

Yard Search Part 1
Yard Search Part 2 Adding Height
Blind Scent Finds and Indication
Scenting for the First Time in a Public Washroom

Equipment
Quick Release Adjustable Leashes

Other
Making a Watercolor Portrait of Your Dog
Multimedia Portrait of a HorseIan Dunbar Using Classical Conditioning to Overcome Fear

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Puppies in Conformation Class

Yes!  Its true!  I do allow young puppies in my conformation classes, in fact, I encourage it.  Because the methods that I use for training show dogs (and all dogs actually) are positive reinforcement methods young puppies do great and are welcome to attend.  Young puppies (2 to 5 months) are like little sponges, open and ready for new information and learning opportunities.  This is, in my opinion, the best time to get your puppies started on their conformation ring training.  One of the most difficult times to start training a dog is during adolescence, so waiting until a dog is old enough to show (6 month) is not the best time to start your training.  It makes much more sense to start young so that when they enter adolescence they are already well on their way and have several behaviors under their belt.  It just makes sense to start early!

I realize that some people have concerns about exposing their puppies to diseases but most classes require vaccination records making a dog training class in a reputable facility a fairly low risk environment.  For me, personally, I have no problem taking my puppies to low risk areas once they have been started on their vaccinations.  If I am being honest, I am much more concerned with my puppy having many positive, early learning and socialization opportunities than I am with them contracting a disease.  The behavioral risk of keeping them inside and not socializing them well is too high and I am not willing to take that risk.  Waiting until a dog is 4 months old to start the socialization and training process simply does not give you enough time to properly socialize and expose them.  So, be safe and be smart, but socialize them well!

Whenever I have young puppies in my conformation classes I am always careful to make a few things clear to my clients.  First, the goal is not that the puppy do everything perfectly like a well trained adult show dog.  The goal is that the puppy have fun and enjoy himself.  I recently watched a very disturbing You Tube video where someone demonstrated how to train a puppy to be a show dog in under a minute.  It was really awful to watch this cheerful puppy be strong armed into position, and forced to stand completely still while he panicked and struggled to escape.  Eventually, he stopped struggling and stood there... with his ears and tail down and the spark gone from his eyes.  Poor guy.  This is, in my opinion, the absolute worst way to train a puppy.  This puppies first conformation experience was scary, uncomfortable, aversive and something he wanted to escape.  Always remember that however an animal learns something lives with that behavior forever.  In other words, if show ring training is trained using positive reinforcement and keeping it light and fun for the puppy, then those behaviors will always have that emotional state attached to them.  On the flip side, if the show ring behaviors are trained with force, corrections and punishment, that emotional state, dread, discomfort or fear will be associated with those behaviors.  The fact is, if you want your puppy to grow up to be a dog that enjoys showing, he needs to be taught to enjoy shows as a puppy.

I always want to make it clear with my clients is that they have a right at any time to give the puppy a break or end the training once they feel the puppy has had enough.  We never want to overdo  it.  When its done well, the training should leave the puppy wanting more.  So, its important that we stop if the puppy starts to show signs of tiring out, getting stressed or looking bored.  Show training should be fun, fun, fun!

Puppies need to be trained on comfortable, non-aversive, dog friendly equipment.  I am not a fan of metal choke collars in general, but they are never a good choice for a young puppy just learning the ropes. 

It is important to make sure that puppies in conformation class feel safe and secure.  If the class is very loud or full of many rowdy dogs, it may be better for the puppy to be off to the side, simply watching and chewing on a bully stick.  People may think that this is a waste of time but its not because as the puppy is sitting on the owners lap, munching on a tasty chewer he is actually being conditioned that being around a bunch of dogs in a strange environment is a good, safe and relaxing thing.  This is invaluable conditioning to a show dog and a great way to ease a puppy into training.

If you havent already done so, consider finding a positive reinforcement conformation class to take your puppy to.  When its done well and the puppy is kept safe and having a good time, it can be a wonderful thing to do for your puppy.

Note:  Before taking your puppy to a conformation class be sure to observe a class and make sure that the instructor is a positive reinforcement trainer.  Please never allow anyone to jerk, drag, force or intimidate your puppy in any way.  You are responsible for keeping your puppy safe and you have a right to say "no".

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New perspective on dog breeding part 1 puppies conditioning in the womb

This article by Larry Mueller was published in Outdoor Life 15 years ago, in 1998. Since then the science of genetics and epigenetics have advanced tremendously but the conclusion has not changed that much. If you want to breed superdogs, youd better start really, really early in a dogs life. The next installment will present a current perspective on the points raised in Larrys article.

Building The Superdog

Beginning Before Birth

The where, when, why and how of starting a superdog

Larry Mueller

Hunting Dogs Editor, Outdoor Life, 1998

     The new century for dogs is now. Modern science has poised the dog world for a fastforward of unprecedented proportions. In the past, superdogs were rare accidents of nature - naturals that made even first timers believe they were great trainers. And now we know how those accidents happen. We hold the simple secrets to building our own superdogs from scratch.

  

How early can we begin the conditioning which could lead to a superdog? Five months? Eight weeks? Ninety days? Would you believe… in the womb? Its true. We have scientific evidence that the fetus is not sealed in isolation. It lives in its mothers world.

Interestingly, before Mendel discovered genes, breeders were hunting pregnant bitches to produce superior pups. After Mendels theory caught on, that practice was called an old wives tale. Genetics allowed us to break breeding down to numbers and predict a few traits like coat color. So, we assumed that breeding is a crap shoot of many-sided gene dice. All traits, behavioral and physical alike, were thought to be locked m place at birth. It was a neatly packaged theory that shrank nature to fit our head size. To believe it, however, required ignoring all the loopholes and protecting our ignorance against obvious evidence to the contrary.

  

But this is for the future. For now, were conditioning fetuses to become great hunting dogs: Proof that its possible comes from the Universityof California, Berkeley. Dr. Marion Diamond, professor of anatomy, divided laboratory rats into two groups. In one rats were housed singly in boxes with just food and water. In the other, groups of rats lived together and enjoyed toys which were changed periodically - a mentally challenging environment.

  

At maturity, Marion Diamond sacrificed some of both groups and physically measured the cortex areas of their brains. The cortexes had actually grown thicker in the challenged rats. For the first time, it was proven that the anatomy of an animal brain could be changed by experience. Subsequent maze tests m other laboratories proved that rats with thicker cortexes were smarter and quicker to learn.

     

In a second study, Professor Diamond placed pregnant rats in both deprived and challenging environments. Again, the challenged rats had the thicker cortexes. But get this: So did their offspring! Somehow, the mothers experiences had improved their babies ability to learn.

  

Can this happen in dogs as well as rats? Of course. As Dr. Diamond points out, the number of neurons in a single column of cortical nerve cells is the same in rats, dogs and man. The number of dendrites (branchlike extensions) and the resulting complexity of circuitry is what creates some of the differences between species.

I asked Professor Diamond whether given the olfactory propensity of dogs and the fact that scent is tasted as well as smelled - there might be a biological connection telling the fetuses that their hunting mother is excited and what odor is responsible. Sound reasonable? "It does," she said, cautioning, however, that she believes everything is possible until proven otherwise.

  

How might the fetus be conditioned by the mother s experience? My own theory is that tasted odor, like medicine held under the tongue, quickly enters the bloodstream. At the same time, excitement releases adrenaline into the bloodstream. Brain chemicals such as seratonin fire into the gaps between the dendrites. A percentage of those chemicals are recycled to be used again by the brain. The remainder enters the bloodstream, which, in a pregnant bitch, also flows through the unborns brain where it reproduces sensations much like the mothers.

  

Whether my theory is right or wrong (veterinary neurologist and Auburn Universityprofessor Larry Myers says Im close, if not dead on) were certain that challenging the pregnant bitch will enlarge the offsprings cortex. Training will be easier. And if my theory is right, the pups will likely have a strong preference for the scent that excites their mother. Deer chasing should be minimized.

  

I believe that the time to make the greatest impression on the fetus is the last 21 days of gestation. (Since this was published in Outdoor Life, NBC reported that Dr. David Min used ultrasound to track heartbeats and movements of human fetuses. They began responding to parents voices and music at 26 weeks, verifying the third trimester as the time of greatest opportunity for influencing the unborn.)

Additional support for hunting the pregnant bitch comes from Missourieducator, Red Setter breeder and trainer, Bruce Ludwig. Except for heat-of-summer litters, Ludwig hunts his bitches until the last week. "Ive definitely seen more pointing intensity in pups from hunted bitches, Bruce said. And as an educator I see a parallel in children. From all walks of life and degrees of intelligence, those mothers who are physically and mentally active during pregnancy bear children who react noticeably better to sight, sound, and touch. Its most apparent before learned responses form, but it carries over to superior grades later."

  

But will breeders hunt their pregnant bitches? Should we risk hunting ours? Weve always pampered them. I can only answer with more questions. Have you ever known a coyote who took off two months from hunting to have her pups? Have you ever known a young coyote that wouldnt hunt? Not hunting the pregnant bitch may well be the first step in producing all those worthless dogs we see.

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